SPA syllabus
1 PROSPECTUS
1.1 INTRODUCTION
The numbers of organised groups enjoying rock climbing and abseiling on outcrops, crags, quarries and climbing walls has multiplied in recent years. MLTUK and its member organisations are concerned that high standards of supervision are maintained, so that both enjoyment and safety are enhanced, without compromising either the sport of climbing or the participation of other crag or wall users. High standards of supervision and organisation are best achieved through experience, personal qualities, training and validation.
This scheme has been designed to provide a level of basic competence for those who are in a position of responsibility during single pitch rock climbing activities. Whilst the award does include a measure of personal competence it is not designed as such, and should not be used as either an entry requirement or measure of suitability for individuals who wish to climb on climbing walls or crags.
1.2 SCOPE OF THE SCHEME
The scheme is for those who are in a position of responsibility during single pitch rock climbing activities. It is primarily concerned with good practice, leading to the safe and quiet enjoyment of the activity. Completion of a training course alone, without taking an assessment course, is not a qualification in itself, although it may be of considerable benefit to the trainee.
It is valid throughout the United Kingdom and Ireland and is recognised by the Adventure Activities Licensing Scheme.
For the purposes of this scheme, a single pitch route is one which:
• is climbed without intermediate stances
• is described as a single pitch in the guidebook
• allows climbers to be lowered to the ground at all times
• is non-tidal
• is non-serious and has little objective danger
• presents no difficulties on approach or retreat, such as route finding, scrambling or navigating
If you are in doubt about a particular venue then the officers of the Home Nation Mountain Training Boards, members of the Association of Mountaineering Instructors or the British Association of Mountain Guides are the appropriate people to approach for advice.
It is the duty of the employer or organising authority to decide whether a leader possesses the personal attributes needed to take responsibility for the care of young people and beginners. It is the combination of technical skills, wide experience and personal qualities that form the basis for effective supervision. This scheme assesses the technical skills and experience; the employer or organising authority must gauge the personal qualities.
The scheme does not cover:
• general mountaineering skills, such as those needed to approach and return from mountain and moorland crags
• multi pitch rock climbing skills, the teaching of leading, or their supervision (these are covered by the Mountain Instructor Scheme)
• access to tidal sea cliffs, or any location where escape is not easily possible
• the gauging of candidate’s personal qualities.
1.3 STAGES IN THE SCHEME
The scheme comprises:
• pre-registration personal climbing experience
• registration, joining a mountaineering council or an affiliated mountaineering club and being issued with a logbook
• minimum two day training course
• consolidation period between training and assessment
• two day assessment course
• continuing experience entered in logbook
1.4 REGISTRATION
Candidates wishing to register with the Award should:
• have a genuine interest in rock climbing and the supervision of groups on single pitch crags
• have at least twelve months' experience of rock climbing
• be not less than 18 years of age at the date of registration
• be an individual or club member of a Mountaineering Council
On receipt of the registration form and appropriate fee, the home nation training board will issue a logbook. Candidates' personal details will be retained and progression through the scheme will be recorded on the National Mountain Training Database.
1.5 TRAINING
Before attending a training course, candidates must be registered with the Single Pitch Award (SPA) (see 1.4 above) and have led at least 15 graded rock climbs outdoors on routes where the protection is leader-placed.
Training courses are run by approved course providers who are either Mountain Instructors or Mountain Guides, are at least two days long and include evening sessions (20 hours contact time). Training courses run with a minimum of four candidates and a maximum of eight. The maximum trainer/candidate ratio is 1:4. Larger courses have dual benefits: the varied experience of the candidates enables an individual to have a better chance of seeing how their own skills compare and they also get the opinion of two trainers. Lists of all approved providers are available from the Training Boards
The training course is for potential leaders and assumes basic competence as a rock climber with experience of leading climbs (see Experience Pre-Requirements). It will emphasise those skills which candidates might have difficulty in learning without expert guidance. A few minor aspects of the syllabus may not be covered during the training course and candidates are expected to deal with these items themselves.
The Director of Training will give oral comments to each candidate and will endorse the training course report page of the logbook with comments about the programme, crags and walls used and conditions encountered. Candidates will receive individual recommendations for the consolidation period. The training course does not involve any written reports concerning the performance or standard of candidates. The title page of the logbook will be endorsed after a training course with an approved sticker. This will show the date and course provider number specific to your trainer. In exceptional circumstances it may be possible to register on, or immediately after, the course, but the trainer is obliged to submit a report to the Training Board containing all registered candidates’ details within 30 days.
Candidates are encouraged to use the skills checklist in the logbook to evaluate their current skills and to plan, with their trainers, their particular route towards assessment.
The Boards maintain close links with every provider through reports submitted after each course. There is also a rolling programme of visits to courses and you may meet a moderator on your course. These visits not only maintain parity between providers but also provide a link between you and the Boards.
1.6 LOGBOOK
Experience gained by candidates should be recorded in the logbook. Entries should be concise, easily read and should include all rock climbing and other relevant experience.
The logbook is divided into six sections:
• Personal details, contents and sample pages
• Pre-training experience
• Training course report
• Logged experience between Training and Assessment
• Assessment course report
• Post assessment experience
The logbook is designed to help you demonstrate your previous experience to others. You should fill it in before a training course to enable the trainers to discuss your particular training needs and to agree which areas of the syllabus you may need to concentrate on before taking an assessment. Few of us can remember every detail of every climb we have done, but this is no reason to avoid using the logbook. List examples of the variety of experiences you have gained and give details of the most notable (or exciting) days out. The information you give does not have to be verified by a third party but will form the basis for discussion at training and assessment.
1.7 CONSOLIDATION PERIOD
Candidates will generally see many new ideas and techniques during training and will therefore need some time to practice and evaluate these before taking the assessment. During this period of consolidation, candidates are advised to climb at as wide a range of venues as possible, both as an individual and when assisting the supervision of others. MLTUK recommends that all but the most experienced candidates allow a minimum of six months between training and assessment. There is currently no time limit on the validity of a training course and some candidates may take several years to complete the award.
1.8 ASSESSMENT
Before attending an assessment course, candidates should:
• have registered
• have attended a training course or been granted exemption from training
• have gained further experience (see Experience Pre-Requirements)
• be proficient in the use of climbing walls
• be competently leading Severe grade climbs on outdoor crags with leader-placed protection
• hold a valid First Aid Certificate
During the assessment course, which is two days long and includes evening sessions, candidates will be tested in accordance with the syllabus requirements. The assessment takes 20 hours (often a concentrated weekend) and is run by an approved course provider who is either a Mountain Instructor or a Mountain Guide. Lists of all approved providers are available from the Training Boards.
Assessors work on a ratio of 1:4 (or less). The overall course size can range from two candidates to eight. Larger courses have dual benefits: the varied experience of the candidates provides individuals with better opportunities of comparing skills whilst ensuring that each candidate receives the opinion of two assessors.
The Director of Assessment will endorse the logbook in one of three ways:
PASS: where satisfactory knowledge and application of the syllabus and the necessary experience and attributes were demonstrated.
DEFER: where the performance was generally up to standard but complete proficiency was not attained in some aspects of the syllabus. Some form of reassessment will be required.
FAIL: where the performance has been generally weak, or the necessary experience and attributes have not been shown. Further training may be recommended before another complete assessment is taken.
In all cases the result will be discussed with you and recorded in your logbook (the page is inserted by the course provider). Candidates who are deferred or failed will receive specific written feedback, including an action plan. This will include the reasons for the result, recommendations on the additional experience needed and details of the timing and format for subsequent re-assessment.
In considering the decision of the assessors, candidates are asked to listen to all elements of the final interview and wherever possible to raise any concerns at that time. If, on reflection, the discussion and the written report do not fit your impression of the assessment and your performance, then contact the course provider for additional clarification, in writing if necessary.
1.9 EXEMPTION
Experienced climbers who already have substantial personal climbing experience and experience of supervising groups on single pitch cliffs and climbing walls may apply to their Board's Secretary to be exempted from attendance at a training course. There is no exemption from assessment.
Before applying for exemption, candidates should consider the following points:
• the training course is not a personal skills climbing course. It introduces candidates to the skills necessary for supervising novices on single pitch rock climbs
• it includes material that might be unfamiliar to even experienced climbers
Candidates applying for exemption should:
• be registered with the scheme
• complete an exemption application form
• submit the completed logbook with the exemption application form and fee to the appropriate Training Board
Exemption application forms and details of fees are available on request from the Home Nation Mountain Training Boards.
1.10 SINGLE PITCH CLIMBS
For the purposes of this scheme a single pitch rock climb is one which:
• is climbed without intermediate stances
• is described as a single pitch in the guidebook
• allows climbers to be lowered to the ground at all times
• is non-tidal
• is non-serious and has little objective danger
• presents no difficulties on approach or retreat, such as route finding, scrambling or navigating
1.11 EQUAL OPPORTUNITIES
The Training Boards are committed to promoting equal opportunities for all participants in climbing and mountaineering. Candidates, trainers and assessors should express a positive attitude towards equal opportunities and act as positive role models.
1.12 FIRST AID
Prior to attendance on an assessment course candidates must hold a valid first aid qualification. Courses must be delivered by a Health and Safety Executive approved provider, must involve at least sixteen hours of instruction, include an element of assessment and cover basic life support and emergency aid.
1.13 APPEALS PROCEDURE
The Training Boards have an established appeals procedure that will be carried out in the following order:
• dialogue between candidate and course provider to establish the reasons for the decision and the subsequent recommendations before reassessment
• contact Training Board Officers for discussion and additional clarification
• write to Training Board Officers with details of your appeal. They will then ask the course provider to respond in writing, supplying any original paperwork. The officer will arbitrate and give his/her view on the validity of the decision with any additional recommendations for both the provider and the candidate
• appeal directly to the Chair of the Training Board, whose decision, in consultation with members of the Board, is final.
2 SYLLABUS
2.1 TECHNICAL COMPETENCE
Candidates must demonstrate competence in the following areas:
2.1.1 Equipment
• identify equipment suitable for personal and group use at a given venue
• demonstrate an ability to evaluate the condition of equipment and ensure appropriate care and maintenance
• demonstrate the ability to use climbing wall equipment appropriately
2.1.2 Anchors
Select suitable, sound anchors in a variety of situations including:
- spikes and blocks
- nuts and camming devices
- threads, chockstones and trees
- fixed equipment
2.1.3 Belaying
• connect self and others to the rope
• set up sound belay systems to single and multiple anchors
• attach self to the belay system
• demonstrate the use of direct and indirect belays
• use a variety of different belay techniques/devices competently and choose the most appropriate for a given situation
• set up top and bottom rope systems and choose the most appropriate system for a given situation
• arrange appropriate runners and belays to protect a seconding climber
• hold falls and carry out lowers
2.1.4 Abseiling
• abseil without the use of a safety rope
• set up fixed and releasable abseils
• use a variety of different devices and methods competently and choose the most appropriate for a given situation
• solve common abseiling problems such as tangled ropes, inadvertent locking and pendulums
• choose an appropriate abseiling site with consideration for:
- ease of take off
- loose rock
- impact on the environment and the climbing resource
• demonstrate methods of safeguarding a novice abseiling
2.1.5 Personal Climbing Skills
• interpret guidebooks effectively
• choose routes suited to personal ability
• move with confidence on Severe grade rock climbs
• place runners suitable for lead protection
• demonstrate a basic understanding of the safety chain and fall factors
2.1.6 Background Knowledge
• demonstrate some understanding of:
- the history, traditions and ethics of UK rock climbing
- the home nation training boards and the UKMTB
- the club system and the Mountaineering Councils
- competition climbing
2.2 THE CLIMBING ENVIRONMENT
Candidates must demonstrate competence in the following areas:
2.2.1 Access
• understand and observe current access and conservation guidelines
• interpret and use effectively the access information given in guidebooks and other sources of information
• show an appreciation of and care for all aspects of the climbing environment
• show an awareness of, ability to obtain information on and willingness to comply with, locally important crag issues and agreements
2.2.2 Conservation
• demonstrate good practice in the conservation and care of the environment
• operate in such a way as to minimise impact on the environment (including the climbing resource)
• define problems of conservation and the effects of human pressure on the climbing environment
• manage groups so as to leave the crags in an improved condition
• demonstrate an awareness of locally important species and the legal situation relating to protected flora/fauna
• demonstrate some knowledge of different rock types and crag features
2.2.3 Etiquette
• demonstrate an awareness of responsibilities to the general public, environmental agencies, local residents, landowners and the climbing community
• demonstrate an awareness of local rock climbing ethics related to single pitch crags
• operate a flexible programme of activities so as to accommodate other site users
• be aware of the hazards presented to other site users by the actions of a group, and act to minimise these
• demonstrate an awareness of the site-specific requirements and agreements relating to different crags, climbing walls and artificial structures
2.3 SUPERVISION
Candidates must demonstrate competence in the following areas:
2.3.1 Organisation
• plan a day's programme of activities to take place at a crag and an artificial climbing structure
• assess the abilities and objectives of the group participating in this plan
• check underlying aims and the objectives of the event
• demonstrate an awareness of responsibility to any authorising organisation, parents, individual group members, the group as a whole and other site users
• demonstrate an understanding of the impact of weather on climbing
• have built-in flexibility when planning activities in order to respond to changing circumstances
• know how to call for expert help in the case of an accident or injury
2.3.2 Group Management
• choose an appropriate venue and route for group use considering:
- suitability of approach/descent
- terrain at the base of the crag
- objective dangers such as loose rock
• demonstrate the safe and responsible management of all group members irrespective of whether or not they are directly involved in the climbing activity
• brief individuals and the group appropriately
• manage the individuals and the group effectively by:
- good communication skills
- setting and reviewing targets
- identifying and reacting to the needs of the group in relation to involvement, interest, enjoyment and achievement
• supervise a group of novice climbers belaying
• manage time appropriately in relation to the plan, activity and conditions
2.3.3 Supervising the Session
• issue appropriate rock climbing equipment and check correct fitting and use
• deliver technical instruction to individuals and the group including:
- choice and fitting of suitable harnesses
- attaching the rope to the harness
- advice, demonstration and coaching on climbing movement
- demonstration of effective use of chosen belay device
- safe use of friction device for abseiling
• demonstrate an understanding of how to avoid common problems such as a stuck climber/abseiler
• solve common problems including:
- stuck climber whilst on a safety rope
- stuck abseiler whilst abseiling with a safety rope
• demonstrate the use of bouldering activities with groups
• demonstrate an understanding of warming up and injury avoidance techniques
• demonstrate an understanding of the needs of those with physical and mental disabilities and medical conditions
