Exemption from Training

I did an army MLT or Rock Leader course and I want to transfer it to the civilian qualification. What do I do?
You need to register on the ML scheme and get a logbook. When you register please tick the exemption information box and you will receive an exemption application form with your logbook. You need to read the information on the form, complete your logbook and send it and the form back to us for evaluation.

My PT instructor told me I could just transfer my army qualifications over to the civilian ones.
No, that’s not correct. You have to apply for exemption from training and demonstrate that you have the minimum experience requirements before attending a full assessment.

So I have to do the assessment all over again?
Yes, you do. There’s no exemption from assessment.

I’m not in the military. Can I apply for exemption as well?
Yes, any candidate who believes that they have exceptional personal and leadership experience and feels they will not benefit from attending training may apply for exemption. The granting of exemption is not guaranteed; all applications are evaluated on an individual basis.

So, what kind of experience do I need to write in my logbook?
The absolute minimum levels of experience required to gain exemption are:

• WGL – 40 quality days hill walking in at least three different upland areas of the UK and Ireland
• ML – 40 quality days mountain walking in at least three different mountain areas of the UK and Ireland, plus 8 nights camping, of which 4 should be wild camps.
• SPA – 40 routes that have been led outdoors using leader placed protection, a number of which should be Severe or above in grade. Plus, 20 sessions (a session is a half day or an evening) assisting with the supervision of rock climbing groups.

What is a quality mountain or hill walking day?
In terms of experience the quality of a day in the hills and mountains depends on the conditions experienced both overhead and underfoot, the exploration of new areas and routes, the terrain encountered and the physical and mental challenges involved. Such days make a positive contribution towards a person’s development and maturity as an all-round mountaineer or hill walker.

Usually some or all of these criteria would be fulfilled:

• The individual takes part in the planning and leadership of the day.
• Navigation skills are used away from well-marked paths.
• Experience must be in terrain and weather comparable to that found in the UK and Irish hills.
• Knowledge is increased and skills practised.
• Attention is paid to safety considerations.
• A journey time of five hours or more. 
•  Adverse conditions may be encountered.

The day should be one where candidates are challenged, techniques are learnt or practised, and ideally a new location is visited. A logbook containing twenty ascents of the same mountain by the same route will normally have those entries credited to a total of one quality day, unless something dramatic happened during some of those days (bad weather, involvement in a rescue etc.).

Candidates scratching around to come up with forty days will normally be at the ‘weak’ end of the range; a minimum is exactly that – a value that is expected to be exceeded. Candidates with a military background should beware of logbook entries of the ‘Section Command Tasks – Ogwen Valley’ variety, which does not define any mountaineering achievement at all and will be valued as such. A solo ascent of Ben Alder over three days will gain much more credit than five Unit Expeditions, for example.

Can overseas experience be included?
Yes, although unless the terrain is a close match to the UK and Ireland in terms of complexity of the land, mapping and the lack of signposting, then it may not be included in the count of quality hill days. Bavaria, with its fairly distinct mountain forms, waymarking and made paths may not be a good match for UK and Ireland leadership experience; parts of Norway may well be. Navigation using Swiss 1:25 000 maps may be good practice for our schemes; Spanish maps may not be.

A similar situation exists with rock climbing. Sunny limestone clip-up sports routes may well extend the candidate’s technical ability, but as an experience it lies some way from equating with the UK and Ireland. Comparable crags should be described and justified if routes climbed there are to be included in the total number of led climbs, although any overseas experience indicates a useful broadening of horizons and experience.

Should indoor climbing be included in the logbook?
Not specifically, although it can be noted that various walls have been visited in the Additional Experience section of the logbook. Supervisory sessions that take place on indoor walls can be logged and counted towards the total number, although it would be desirable to show a variety of locations including both indoors and outdoors.

What happens if an exemption application is not granted? 
A candidate who has had an exemption application turned down will not be able to attend an assessment course. If further experience is required we will define this and hold the application ‘pending’ for twelve months while the additional entries are logged. If, after twelve months no further information is forthcoming from the candidate, a fresh application will be required.