MLA Syllabus

Group Management and the Responsibilities of the Group Leader

Candidates must be familiar with the main areas of responsibility of the mountain leader.

General Responsibilities

  • to individuals, to the group as a whole and where appropriate to parents/guardians.
  • to the organising authority, committee or manager of the activity.
  • to the general public, the environment, environmental bodies and organisations, local residents, land managers, the mountaineering fraternity, the Training Boards and fellow leaders.

Specific Responsibilities

  • to choose objectives appropriate to the experience, skills and motivation level of the group, the prevailing conditions and the leader's own experience and ability.
  • to carry out initial planning e.g. to obtain parental consent, authority clearance, personal and medical information, to budget, arrange insurance and organise transport.
  • to complete detailed preparations e.g. plan routes, obtain access permission, obtain weather forecasts and brief the group.
  • to ensure the group is adequately equipped for the activity.
  • to have a knowledge of and compliance with current legislation relating to the activities.

Operational Responsibilities in the Mountains

  • to manage the group effectively by setting and reviewing targets, positive decision making, delegation where appropriate, group control, discipline, and good communication.
  • to meet the changing needs of the group paying particular regard to the health and fitness of its members, whilst maintaining confidence and enthusiasm.
  • to provide a safe and rewarding experience for each group member through involvement, interest, enjoyment and achievement, through imparting appropriate technical skills and competence and through fostering environmental awareness.
  • to evaluate the experience and motivate towards further participation.
  • to supervise groups on unaccompanied sections of a walk.

Personal and Leadership Skills

  • demonstrate good practice with regard to individual skills: pace, rhythm, foot placement, conservation of energy, balance and co-ordination.
  • make suitable route choices, interpret and evaluate terrain, revising routes where necessary.
  • identify and manage risk.
  • move with the group on difficult terrain including scree, narrow ridges and steep broken ground.
  • demonstrate the use of the rope or other safeguards in hazardous and emergency situations.
  • demonstrate effective group management and supervision skills.

Navigation

It is essential that a mountain leader can navigate competently. Candidates will be expected to choose the appropriate navigation technique for the prevailing conditions and be able to introduce these skills to others.

Candidates should be familiar with the following:

  • maps, scales and conventional signs.
  • contours and other methods of showing relief.
  • topograpical features.
  • relating the map to the ground and vice versa.
  • measuring distance on the map and the ground.
  • navigating across country with map alone.
  • compasses and other navigational aids.
  • methods of identifying features and position.
  • methods for navigating across country in poor visibility and/or in darkness.
  • route planning, including methods of recording routes.

Access and the Environment

Mountain leaders should extend their knowledge about all aspects of mountaineering and the mountain environment e.g. geology, flora, fauna, local history, mountaineering history and photography.

Candidates should:

  • be aware of current legislation as it relates to the various home nations regarding access to the countryside.
  • be aware of the multiple uses of upland areas, e.g. hill farming, forestry, water collection, grouse shooting and deer stalking.
  • appreciate the problems of conservation with respect to flora, fauna and erosion and be aware of long term effects of human pressures on the upland environment.
  • know how to get information about access to wild country e.g. from appropriate guidebooks, maps and the main countryside agencies.
  • appreciate the significance of access agreements and Rights of Way in upland areas.
  • understand the nature of specially designated areas and limitations on their use.
  • be familiar with the Country Code and understand the individual's responsibility to minimise impact on the environment.

Hazards and Emergency Procedures

Hazards of Steep Ground

Situations may arise where the rope is necessary to safeguard members of the group. The candidate should recognise such difficulties and potential dangers leading to the need to use rope techniques to provide confidence or assistance. It is emphasised that the techniques used are not those suitable for rock climbing.

Candidates should be familiar with the following:

  • suitability of different types and sizes of rope.
  • rope management.
  • appropriate knots.
  • different methods of belaying, including choice of safe anchors.
  • use and limitations of the rope alone to protect descents and ascents for the whole party and to safeguard a single party member.

Environmental Hazards

Environmental mountain hazards include loose rock, flooding and lightning. A mountain leader should exercise sound judgement to avoid these hazards but should know how to deal with them if necessary.

Water Hazards (including marshes, streams and rivers)

  • preparation, skills and safety procedures for leader and group members.
  • dangers and methods of avoidance.
  • selection of the best crossing points.
  • crossing with and without the use of a rope.

Emergency Procedures

  • procedure in the event of an accident.
  • methods of search and evacuation.
  • equipment used by Mountain Rescue Teams.
  • improvised mountain rescue equipment - application and limitations.
  • emergency bivouac skills.

Medical

Candidates should meet the first aid requirements of the training schemes and have an understanding of the following conditions, their causes, signs, symptoms, prevention and treatment:

  • mountain hypothermia (exposure) and its treatment both in the field and at base.
  • cold injuries.
  • heat disorders.
  • allergic reactions.
  • common medical problems, e.g. asthma, diabetes, blisters, sprains.

Equipment

Candidates should demonstrate knowledge of:

  • personal and group equipment required for mountain walks and camps, taking into account various weather conditions.
  • additional equipment required by a leader.
  • design and construction of equipment, including its material characteristics, care and maintenance.

Expedition Skills

Candidates should have knowledge and experience of the following aspects of mountain camping:

  • Equipment - packing and carrying personal and communal equipment.
  • Food  - (a)selection of suitable foods, their quantities and packaging. (b)preparation and cooking.
  • Other Skills

    a)selection of campsite.

    b)siting and pitching of tents.

    c)organisation of camp and individual tents.

    d)group and personal hygiene and sanitation.

    e)use of huts, bothies and other shelters.

    f)bivouac shelters.

Weather

Candidates must have an elementary knowledge of weather. They must gain practical experience in relating regional weather forecasts to mountainous areas and develop their ability to make short term forecasts from observed meteorological conditions. Candidates should also have an understanding of:

  • sources of information on weather.
  • elementary interpretation of weather maps.
  • weather developments associated with different air masses, major cloud forms, changes in wind direction and in atmospheric pressure.
  • elementary practical identification of cloud types, wind speeds and temperatures.
  • effects of weather on route selection and level of activity.

Structure of the Activity

Candidates should have a basic understanding of:

  • the origins, development and ethics of mountaineering within the UK and Ireland.
  • details of the role of the Mountaineering Councils, the services they provide and the structure of club and individual membership.
  • details of the structure of mountain related training within the UK and Ireland and the role of the Mountain Training Boards.
  • how to access relevant information from mountaineering and hill-walking literature e.g. books, guidebooks and magazines.

Definition of a quality mountain day

In terms of experience, the quality of a mountain day lies in such things as the conditions experienced both overhead and underfoot, the exploration of new areas, the terrain covered and the physical and mental challenge. Such days make a positive contribution towards a person’s development and maturity as an all round mountaineer.

Usually some or all of these criteria would be fulfilled:

  • the individual takes part in the planning and leadership
  • navigation skills are required away from marked paths
  • experience must be in terrain and weather comparable to that found in UK and Irish hills
  • knowledge is increased and skills practised
  • attention is paid to safety
  • five hours or more journey time
  • adverse conditions may be encountered

Bibliography

The following publications are relevant to most of the Syllabus and should be studied carefully:

General

*Titles marked with an asterisk are available from the MLTB Manchester office.

  • *Mountaincraft and Leadership, Langmuir (MLTB/SMLTB 1997)
  • *Safety on Mountains, BMC (BMC 1988)
  • *Mountain and Cave Rescue, MRC (MRC 1998)

Navigation

  • *Mountain Navigation, Peter Cliff (Cliff 1995)
  • Land Navigation, W. Keay (D of E 1995)
  • Teaching Orienteering, MacNeil (Harvey 1997)

Access and Conservation

  • The Country Code, HMSO
  • Freedom to Roam, Hill (Moreland)
  • Concordat on Access to Scotland's Hills and Mountains, Access Forum (SNH 1996)
  • 'Where to Go in the Great Outdoors' Sanitation Leaflet, MC of S (1999)

Security on Steep Ground

  • Knots Booklet, (BMC1997)

Special Mountain Hazards and Emergency Procedures

  • First Aid on Mountains, Bollen (BMC 1997)
  • Medicine for Mountaineers, Wilkinson (Mountaineers)

Equipment and Expedition Skills

  • Expedition Guide (D of E Scheme)

Weather

  • Mountain Weather, Pedgley (Cicerone 1997)

Additional Interests

  • Climbing Magazines (High, Climber, On The Edge etc.)
  • One Man. s Mountain, Patey (Gollancz)
  • The Games Climbers Play, Wilson (Baton Wicks 1995)
  • Mountaineering in Scotland/Undiscovered Scotland, Murray (Baton Wicks 1997)
  • Mountaineers Weekend Book, Styles
  • Mynydda, Ap Gwyn

Videos:

  • *Climbing rock . classic climbs . essential skills (MLTB/BMC 1998)
  • Leading the Way, BELA (CCPR)
  • Safety on Mountains - hill-walking video - available Summer 2000 (MLTB/BMC 2000)